Casters into the base, cylinder into the base, mechanism onto the seat, then the backrest and armrests — with every bolt left finger-tight until the whole chair is together. The manual’s order wins where it differs; this is the sequence most chairs share.
From the floor up. Push the five casters into the base first, while nothing is on it — they are a push fit and go in with a firm press. Drop the gas cylinder into the center of the base; it sits by its own weight. Remove any plastic cap from the top of the cylinder before the seat goes on.
Seat and mechanism upside down. Lay the seat cushion face down on something soft and bolt the tilt mechanism to its underside — on many chairs it comes pre-fitted. Fitting the backrest and the armrests at this stage, with the seat on the floor, is usually easier than doing it once the seat is on the cylinder, where it swivels and tips as you work.
Then the seat onto the cylinder. Turn the seat over, lower the mechanism’s socket onto the top of the cylinder, and sit down firmly: your weight seats the taper fit. No screw holds this joint.
Finger-tight until the end. Brackets need a little play to line up, and a bolt fully tightened early forces the later holes out of position — the usual cause of a cross-threaded or stripped bolt on a chair that otherwise went together fine. Once everything is in place and square, tighten in a cross pattern rather than one corner at a time.
Check again after a week. Chairs settle in the first days of use; a second pass on the same bolts catches the ones that have loosened. Setting up a new office chair covers the adjustment once it is built, and if the chair later rolls badly, replacing worn office chair casters explains how to match new ones.
Last reviewed 13 October 2026